With a car load of rocks we left Boulia and headed for Birdsville. We were actually going to head out to Inaminka but we were getting word that Covid was getting really bad in NSW and the boarders would be closed between there and Queensland. Well, we didn’t want to go anywhere where Covid was active and we didn’t want to get stuck in NSW. So we decided to drive to Birdsville and then listen to the news and find out exactly what was happening. Although we had been to Birdsville before this time was via a different route via Bedourie. The first place of interest was the Dingo fence, this was built in the 1880’s to keep the dingo’s out of the fertile south east. It is the longest fence in the world at 5,614km from the Eyre Peninsula to Jimbour in Queensland.

As we drove on we passed over the Tropic of Capricorn marked for us all to see and take photos.

Once again here we are out in the middle of absolutely nowhere and we experience sights there to be seen. Our next stop was a remembrance site to a young man I will let you have a read.

From here on we noticed all the lovely wild flowers growing at the side of the road, the photos do not do them justice they were so colorful and so many of them.

It was a lovely days drive taking our time and taking in the sights. We were soon heading into Birdsville it looked somewhat different to the last time we came, last time the races were on. When the races are on there are people, caravans, tents, food wagons and entertainment stalls everywhere. Now it was the pub and streets. I have to say I preferred it whilst the races were on as the atmosphere was great. We drove just outside of town to camp for the night. The pub was open so we thought as we could not even get near the door last time we would go in and have dinner at one of Australia’s most iconic pubs.

It did not disappoint with lots of memorabilia hanging about the place and plenty of laughs to be had as you looked about and took it all in. The food was great too so with full bellies we left the pub and headed back to camp for a fire. This is just a pit stop so we will be on our way the next day. We have definitely decided we will not go into NSW so are heading parallel to the NSW boarder down towards Thargomindah area. Trevor knows these roads and is taking us the scenic route.

Up early we went to the Min Min center and booked in for their show it was well set up for such a small town and we also got our tickets for the museum. They say the Min Min are very low in the sky not high like the light we had seen. They told us a few stories from times past of locals seeing the Min Min and some recent stories as this still happens. We actually have a friend that lived in Jundah and had the Min Min follow him by the side of his car one night as he stopped they stopped. This man would not suffer fools so I can trust his story.

Luckily I got three photos of the Min Min show, Unfortunately we could not take pictures oops!

The museum was just around the corner and had a little of everything, from Dinosaurs to Space junk. One thing that really got us interested was the rocks they had all over the place. These rocks are found where the inland sea used to be and they are millions of years old. Inside each rock there is a fossil, mostly just shells but if your lucky you could score a fish or even a dinosaur bone. The lady at the museum told us where we could find many of them. We were going exploring the next day so now we had an idea of where we were going. We were at the museum for some time as it had so much to see.

A few supplies from the supermarket and we headed back to camp. What a great day for such a small town in the middle of nowhere. There was a house within the museum grounds, it was well set up and had lots of information about the families that had lived here. The last person to own it from the original family only left it in recent years having never modernized it.

I have to show you the fire engine, Where ever I go now and I see a fire engine I have great memories of a very special friend who sadly passed recently. He was once a fireman and obviously was interested in the engines of years gone by. So as I look at a fire engine anywhere we go I just see Paul a lovely man with a huge heart and a lovely smile.

Exploring the surrounding area

An early start saw us heading straight to the pub……for a coffee of course. Thankfully their coffee was not too bad, then for some fuel we headed back out of Boulia to explore. We went out along the road until we came to Min Min or at least the ruins of what used to be the Min Min Hotel. We had seen the ruins on the way in to Boulia and were interested to come see what they were about. The fire place was made up of what ever stones they could find which included some of the millions of years old rocks.

We turned off the main road at this ruin and headed out towards where we hoped to find these fossil rocks. We spotted some along the road here and there but the women at the museum had said there were heaps so we kept going. As we came around one corner we saw that Michelle and Trevor had stopped, then I saw why. Oh wow, someone had obviously lived out here many years ago there were wooden stumps and things laying everywhere. My kind of heaven, love rummaging through all this old stuff imagining what stood there and how the hustle and bustle would have been. Trevor recognized the ruins as an old sheep shearing shed. There were heaps of old shearers blades, as they changed them they would have thrown the old one down and it would disappear between the floor boards. Now there were no floor boards they were just laying there open to the elements. I loved looking about and collecting some blades and little bits of iron to make things for my yard at home. A wind chime I think, I can then sit there and remember that old sheep sheering shed and how it must have been. Jock was happy he found an old bottle with a date and a name on it. There was so much stuff, so much to rummage through, ruins where we suspect shearers stayed and a tip with oh so much. It would be really interesting to find information and pictures of exactly what it used to look like. This is the kind of thing all those dirt tracks are worth driving for.

We got back on the road and kept an eye out for the fossil rocks, we came across what we thought the lady was talking about and got out of the car to open up some of them to see what we find. Luckily we had the kids fossicking tools in the van. All we found was shells, which when you open the first one your in awe of to think that had not seen the light of day since the dinosaurs.

As we were about to go further up the road a farmer passed by, Trevor got to talking to him and anyone that knows Jock and knows how much he talks to people, well Trevor is 10 times worse!!! After about 45 minutes the farmer left having told Trevor exactly where the rocks were and his last words were, “Take as many as you like PLEASE”. We found out we were on a property that is a million acres!! The man was the manager of the property. Blimey I was chuffed I got to live on an acre and a half!!!!! Anyway we continued on and took his directions and OMG! So many rocks and so big. We opened a fair few but still just shells unfortunately but we had fun cracking them. I took a few home, another piece of art came to mind for my garden. You know how you see where tourists have stacked stones by the side of the road, well mine are going to be these fossil rocks.

We needed to get back before dark so had to call it a day and what a brilliant day it had been, we loved every minute of it.

Contrary to the old farts comments when moving into our site we got out easily and were soon on the road again. There is just something about being out on the open road, we all really enjoy it and the more remote the better. So dirt tracks mapped out we made our way towards Boulia. It will be a few days before we get there passing through Hughenden and Winton. We drove for a couple of hours and pulled up in a gravel pit for the night, the journey was uneventful apart from the very strange cloud formation we saw poking behind a tree. It looked like a UFO, we got on to the Prendy’s via UHF to ask if they had seen it. The Gravel pit we pulled into had heaps of trees that had been felled so Trevor and Jock got to cutting some wood to restock for fires along with plenty for a fire that night.

Next day we pulled in to Hughenden and Jock was so hoping for a bakery run but everything was closed! Next stop was Winton, this is one of those places that we always seems to need to drive through to get to where we are going and always worth a stop. We once again stayed in the show grounds as there is always plenty of room. We decided to eat out at the local hotel, it was a nice meal and the men had a chance to watch the footie on a big screen. I do not know what it is about Winton but I really like it here just a small country town without being too small.

We had a couple of days in Winton to catch up with a few things but once again it was time to move on. A little sad from now on as we know we are just heading home. We are just trying to drag it out a little by touring about out west. As we travelled towards Boulia our destination to find out about the Min Min lights, there were huge open spaces and dirt roads just as we like it. The amount of Emu’s and Camels we have seen on this trip is unbelievable also lots of cattle crossing the road. We did see some Eagles but not as many as we had seen on our trip in 2019 in the Kimberley’s. We came across a pub out in the middle of all that nothingness, yep A pub, nothing else, although there were things about to suggest it was a little more than just a pub at some stage. It did a nice lunch and some really nice pictures were to be had. One picture I got was the phone box!!!! Yes in the middle of nowhere. This little………don’t really know what to call it?? Ah…..watering hole, is called Middleton.

At last we were pulling into Boulia the home of the Min Min lights. Our camp for the next couple of days was a free camp at Boulia race course, we got right into the bush by the river a lovely spot. Boulia is a very small town but seems to be building to encourage tourists. I would reccomend it as a matter of fact I love it, don’t ask me why, I just felt comfortable here and would have stayed longer. Jock and I both felt the same and have decided one trip we will come and stay a while. The one shop other than the “supermarket” had a sign on its door. If you would like to browse call this number and I will open up. I suppose with not many people about and because they live behind the shop they may aswell be at home than sit in a shop with no customers. It was almost the same with the tiny supermarket, it was open but if you were desperate and it was closed you could call them and they would open, this especially applied on a Sunday. We went to the Min Min center but were too late for the show on the day we arrived. We would have to come back in the morning. They told us there was a museum too so we also plan to see that tomorrow. For now we just had a little drive around the town (which didn’t take long!) to get our bearings. Then went back to camp and had a fire ready for our day tomorrow.

We headed for Innot Springs and on route we called to book our sites. Unfortunately they were fully booked so we decided on the free camp about 17k up the road from Innot Springs. The drive up from Cairns was as good as the drive we had down some weeks before because we saw everything differently being the opposite direction. It was a shame that we were not able to get in to the springs as we would really have liked time in the pools again. As it was we scored a really nice camp spot right next to a lovely creek. So nice we decided to stay there two nights. Some old fart watching us maneuver the van into the space and was saying he did not know how we were going to get out. Ha ha he has not seen some of the spots we have been to in our van. It was a magical spot somewhere I could easily spend a week and its free!

We soon got a fire going and got settled in. Michelle and Jock wandered down to the waters edge to see how it was, bloody freezing was the answer! At one point Michelle had said she would have a swim tomorrow but I don’t think she will be doing that now!! A few people came down to have a look and some did have a towel but once their toes hit the water they just giggled and walked away again. It was so clear and inviting surely one person will entertain us with a dip? It didn’t take long, a young couple with a baby came down, he was getting in once he was set up. He gingerly got in, you could see he didn’t want to back out so he stooped down put his bum in let out a little eek and slowly walked out again. Oh well, the best bit was because the water was so cold we didn’t have crowds down here with us.

As the sun went down it was just lovely with the suns rays coming through the trees. Thank goodness we had the fire on as the temperature dropped suddenly. I spent some time taking photos of the trees and river in the sunset. God knows how many photos I will have of sunsets and trees when I get home? We all felt a bit worn out and cold so we retired early ready for a lovely relaxing day tomorrow by our own little bit of paradise. This is what outdoor living is all about, it’s just wonderful we can’t get enough of it.

Next day we just rested, did not have to be up to move, no expectations from anyone just did what ever we wanted. Jock decided this was the day for the fish he caught and during the day got the fish ready for eating. It really was a lovely day, people passing by for a chat as they too come down to the river to dip their toes in. We got a fire going and the men decided the fish would be best cooked over the fire. We all had a chat about where next as all we had decided was “out west”. I had found a circuit to do called the explorers circuit/way. There were places along it I had not been to. Trevor suggested the roads to use to get there which also including roads Jock and I had not been on yet. So we had a general idea where we were going. We had not planned any part of this trip as we thought we would have been up the Cape longer than we were so anything now was a bonus.

Once again the fire was lit and Trevor made ready the hot plate we had for over the fire. The fish was on and Michelle made a salad to go with it. I of course stuck to leftovers, no fish for me! It didn’t take long and they were all tucking into what they tell me was delicious fish, they ate heaps but still there was some left over for the next day.

To be honest this is another place I would come back to stay and would be happy with a few days by the waters edge. One day, maybe when we have had a chance to explore the many other places we have yet to explore in Australia. Moving day tomorrow so it was not a late night and it won’t be an early start as where ever we will be, we will be when ever!

After an early pack up we headed to Cairns, this was much sooner than we had anticipated but we had seen and done all we wanted and could do at this stage at the cape. Scott is talking about going home from Cairns and Michelle, Trevor, Jock and I will decide what we will do next. We headed straight for the free camp that we had used before, oh my goodness it was busy and we rocked up in our filthy cars and vans and everyone else had very clean vans. If only they knew what we had done in the past weeks, i’d rather the dirty van with that under my belt than a clean van having stuck to main roads. We found a spot each and set up. We went out to dinner with Carol, this time for Greek and very nice it was too. Then we headed up the road to the RSL as the last game of the State of Origin was on and Jock and Trevor wanted to see it. We sat in the TV room in the only two seats left under the screen, I saw a beer on the table and an empty chair but thought maybe someone had gone to the loo. As it happens I was right, he came back to his seat and he was pissed as a fart. He could not quite make me out, I think he stood there thinking, “I am sure I didn’t pick up this old tart”. He sat down anyway but could not even hold on to his phone or see what was on his screen. Carol, Michelle and I got the giggles, he was so funny to watch. He finished his beer and went back to the bar, we thought he would not be served but he was and came back with a full glass. He lost most of it down his front. Every time he came back he stood wobbling staring at me and then his seat, maybe I actually looked good after so many schooners?? He kept us girls very entertained and sure enough still got served, which is highly illegal. Jock went to the manager and had a go at him, he did not seem too bothered apparently he is a regular, shame on you Cairns RSL.

Jock and Trevor enjoyed the game and we left to go back to camp dropping Carol at home on our way. When we got back to our camp I was blown away by what I saw……..a rooftop tent parked between our van and the van beside us, you would not have thought they could fit in there but they did. I was a bit grumpy and tired by now and made sure I was not quiet coming in. The joys of free camping! Most people are thoughtful on free camps but now and then their actions blow you away. Having just had a debate online with free campers I had to take some of my own advice, we do not know the reason for their actions and unless we are willing to ask we have to deal with it or go pay for a site where there are rules.

Next day Jock went on a fishing trip….YAY at last. Trevor rang a charter got him on one and paid a deposit knowing that would force Jock’s hand to go, Trevor said if he really did not want to pay for it he was prepared to pay for it so that Jock got to catch that fish. Jock jumped at the chance and dissapeared first thing in the morning. Michelle and I also got up early ish, we were running Scott in to Cairns to pick up his hire car so he could get on the road to home. Once he left Michelle and I had a few things to do in town and we wanted to find a couple of op shops but we did not get the time unfortunately once we had finished all the shopping it was time to get back to camp as I had someone visiting in the afternoon. Actually when I got back to camp Jenny was already there, Trevor had met her for me and was sitting outside our van chatting to her. Jenny and I had a great catch up, she just missed Jock, he arrived about 20 minutes after she had left. Jock looked very pleased with his day and had his catch in his hands. He needed to have at least one good fishing day out of this trip, all the time he had fished on this trip it was just an hour or so here and there, he needed the whole day to get his catch.

The fish were put away into the fridge ready to be eaten another day, probably tomorrow. We sat and chatted that night about where we would go. We had all wanted to go back to the springs at Innot springs so our plan was go there. Our original plan was to head down the coast and visit Jo and Lee on our way past then head out west. But with the news we were hearing about Covid we decided as we had not been among a lot of people we would keep it that way and stay away from the coast.

Our last day in Cooktown we had set aside for the museum, well actually we were supposed to go yesterday but when we rocked up it had closed! So today we would get the chance to go in. It is set out very well and has a lot in there. It is housed in an old convent. I had a bit of a job negotiating the stairs by now my back had been well and truly stirred up. The first photos are the actual anchor and canon from The Endeavor it’s very fascinating to be standing there looking at it. This post will be short and mostly photos.

There was a lot of reading to be done at this museum, if you were to read everything I would say you would need at least a morning in there. Jock reads a fair amount but I just like seeing the old items, old dresses, glasses, lace, they had it all. I do read some and get the jist of what I am looking at unless there is something that really interests me. Tomorrow we will pack up and leave Cooktown, I have really enjoyed being here and wouldn’t mind a week holiday here another time. One thing we did notice is the shop owners were not in general friendly it was as if they had had enough of the tourists, which no doubt they had but a few more smiles would not go a miss!

We had a day doing the usual chores, washing and supplies but at the same time we explored Cooktown a little more. We saw a sign for a lookout and followed it. It was lovely and we had views all around us, we could actually see our caravan on the other side of town, the waterway into Cooktown and on the other side the beaches and rock face. They have a time capsule up there, it was a little confronting to be standing reading about something that is not going to be opened until after my time! Poor old bugger! But we spent some time reading about where Captain Cook had landed and that he had come up this hill to get a view of where he was. His ship had come aground here and it had caused a large hole in the ship.

We had a general drive around town but like I said before it really isn’t that big. We spotted the museum so we set aside some time to do that the next day. We went back to camp to see a HUGE rig that had moved in, now that’s what I call a big rig, not sure i’d like the fuel bills or problem’s with getting into sites but hey if you have that much money who cares.

Today was Emma’s last day and she really wanted to do some fishing. So we decided a take away down by the sea and fishing would be the go. They have great facilities here for just that. The recommended takeaway was Thai, so we popped in placed our order then set up with the rods before we picked it up. Nothing was caught before eating but luckily Emma caught a bait fish and was very happy with her catch. Our Thai was lovely and there were tables to sit at, we had a little jetty to ourselves and a lovely evening was had by all. Jock didn’t catch a fish but he caught a boat!!!

All around this lovely park there were bricks printed with local peoples names it really was a lovely touch and interesting to read them, some actually said decedent of Capt Cook. I was thinking that we should have something similar in Kleinton/Highfields as we have so many people here from many places around the world and Australia.

The Curlews were around us hoping they were going to get some food. As we watched them we were surprised to hear a weird scalding noise come from them. It seems they make this noise if they want to go to something ie food but are very unsure as to whether to or not. I had always thought they just made that awful screeching at night.

Cooktown is somewhere Jock and I had both always wanted to go to so we were looking forward to this leg of our trip. It is a small town but bigger than many we had been to so far with cafe’s, supermarket and shops. On route to Cooktown we saw a sign for a gallery and coffee so pulled in for a look see. The gallery was lovely the art work was so realistic, there were a few I could have taken home with me but for the price but certainly worth the price. The coffee was good too! When we arrived in Cooktown all the campsites were fully booked so we booked into the racecourse which was open for a small fee for a night. We plan on staying here a few nights because Emma will be taken back to Cairns airport to fly back to boarding school and we want to explore the Cape Tribulation from here. It was nice to be on green grass and to have shops and facilities about. Once again no power but there was water available and great toilets and showers on site. We had a lovely rest day first day only going out in to town for supplies. The next day Jock headed out early with Scott to have a fish but nothing was happening, everyone telling Jock its the wrong time of year and too windy! I think that what is really needed is a boat to be out in the water rather than beach or pier. If he does not catch a fish soon he is just going to have to book onto a fishing charter, maybe in Cairns, he can’t go home without having caught a fish!

We went out to the pub for dinner, I imagine Jock enjoyed the break from cooking and certainly enjoyed his pub steak. I have to say I had to borrow a jacket off Michelle as it was so cold once that sun had gone down, actually it was probably the wind, we have been told there is always a wind here in Cooktown at this time of year. We had planned our trip to the Cape Tribulation for the next day, an early start as it would be a long day. We decided we did not want to do the main roads we would rather get on to the Bloomfield Track which was only 4wd. It was a great drive with lots of water crossings and changing scenery. People from overseas pay lots of money to do this drive and we are lucky enough to have it in our country and within reach. Sorry boasting now!!!

Our first stop was a waterfall, I could hear it but could also see that there were rocks to climb to get to it and as it was spitting with rain I decided it would not be wise for me to try to walk to it. Jock had a better look and said he felt it best if I didn’t try as the rocks were slippy. So he took the camera for me. As we drove we saw rivers and rainforest and lots of greenery. The road was narrow although two way, some parts were really rough, some not so bad. One that will always be with me is the hill we had to drive up after having been though water. As you can imagine lots of vehicles doing the same left the hill slippy!! We watched Trevor’s car dance and slide up in front of us and then we followed, not too bad for our car but we held our breath for a second. All good fun.

It really was a fabulous drive and we did not realise how many hours we had been in the car. We stopped at Cape Tribulation for lunch, all that was there was like a tourist hub, holiday accommodation and cafe’s. So many people, it was still school holiday time and people can get to here from the opposite way we came on a good road. Most would probable drive there from Cairns. After a good break we headed towards Cairns although we would not get right to Cairns, we had decided best to go back via the good roads so as to get back before dark. We had some steep drop off’s on this road straight down to beautiful beaches and we still had a water crossing. We stopped at the beach for a look see, we had been here before a few years back but boy had it changed! It used to be just a side stop along the main road but now there is a carpark and a lookout. A shame really but I suppose they need to deal with the many people coming to visit. Actually the last time we were here Janice and Geoff were with us.

We were soon at the ferry to cross the river there was a little wait as there were so many people on the road. We were soon back on the main roads and passing through Mossman and turning right at Mount Malloy to head up back to Cooktown. It is not wise to be on the roads after dark as there are too many wild animals that can cause accidents. Luckily we got back about 30 minutes before dark. What a fabulous day, I would love to do that drive again another time, maybe one day in the future.

Having left Hahn River we headed out to Elim Beach, we had seen this beach camp on a you tube series of the cape it looked beautiful. Our drive over the Elim beach was a great drive with water crossings and lovely scenery.

When we arrived at Elim we were not disappointed it was just lovely but still such a shame to have such a beautiful beach but not be able to swim or even stand near the edge of the water. Crocodiles being the main worry but if you manage to get out into the water you then have not only crocs to worry about but sharks too! So a drive up the beach was our preferred way to get to see all we wanted to see. We booked in to the campsite and picked our spot at the back by the trees. No power or water to be had here but there were showers and toilets and we were allowed to have fires so all was well. The next day we decided to have a proper explore, we had been told about the coloured sands, so we headed up the beach in the car at low tide, Michelle and Emma came along with Jock and I. The sands looked very much like the coloured sands on Fraser Island.

The sands were not too far from our camp so we decided to check out the other side of the beach from the camp. For this we drove into the camp and out on the beach side road. Little did we know where this road was going to take us! Firstly as we entered the beach there were a few very old beach houses, with very old furniture around. We wondered who they had belonged to and why left. Unfortunately there was no information on them. We did see one further back from the beach that was still used.

Once we were on to the beach again we decided we would not drive along it as the tide was starting to come in. So instead we had seen that the track we had been on continued along at the back of the beach. We saw signs telling us crocodiles inhabit this area but we were fine we were going to be staying in the car. We followed the track that got narrower and narrower, then another track, and another, we decided to keep going. Oh my goodness the scenery was just lovely we were right in among the huge sand dunes. We lost a caravan mirror along the narrow tracks but luckily found it on our return. I was so glad we had followed the tracks it was a lovely drive out and exciting. The scenery was not caught very well on camera, it is a shame but hey if you want to see it put it on your bucket list.

On our way back to camp we all chatted about what a great drive we had had. We picked up some good fire wood along the track and got a great fire going on our return to camp. Elim beach definitely was worth the visit.

Back onto the main roads again we headed for Hhan river campsite, supposedly good fishing! We could not get a powered site but were allowed our generator on until 7pm then we just had to be careful with power. Jock ordered two Lithium batteries to be delivered to Cairns post office so we could pick them up on our way back through. The campsite was lovely and green and lovely flower beds it made a change from all the dust and dirt. They have a resident Emu called Aussie that is very friendly but you have to take your shoes in as he has a shoe fetish, he just walked about the site visiting people as he went. It was the only Emu I have ever not been afraid of, they can be mean little shits. Jock was once chased by one at Ayres Rock, it chased him around our car and was not going to give up. He finally got into the car and locked the door. We also saw a Goanna, very big lizard to those of you in UK. Jock went off down the river for a fish, we keep hoping he will bring something back but no, still no fish! Later in the day a Peacock visited us.

It was really nice that we were able to have a fire, love these bush camps. Scott loved it because he could buy grog from the roadhouse and I was happy because they had half decent coffee. I’m going to leave this post here, short and sweet. Next stop Elim beach.